Friday 21 August 2009

Cote D'Azur on the cheap












The French Riviera at Cote D'Azur. Photograph: Alamy

St Tropez
The lowdown

No matter how many times you go back, St Trop, as its 5,600 inhabitants call it, never fails to disappoint. Despite the millions of visitors and rip-off prices, the place defiantly oozes glamour. St Tropez has two very different sides - the ever-fashionable meeting place for celebs and millionaires, and the unspoilt picturesque fishing village.

So if you don't mind shelling out €5 for an espresso, you can sit out on the terrace of the iconic Sennequier cafe, and enjoy the daily street show of wide-eyed tourists watching the exhibitionist nouveau riche sipping champagne on the decks of their yachts. If that doesn't float your boat, there is a wonderful nature walk round the coast from the old port all the way to the sandy beaches at Pampelonne, where you pass through dazzling Mediterranean landscapes and can even find a quiet public beach to swim without paying a fortune for sun loungers and umbrellas.

Where to eat

Not even les Tropeziens can remember the bizarre name of Le Kikouiou (route de Bonne Terrasse, 00 33 4 947 98394). It's actually named after the Kenyan tribe, and those in the know flock here from the day it opens for the season at the beginning of April, through to the end of October. In an idyllic setting between a fragrant pine forest and lush vineyards, with the beach two minutes' walk away, Le Kikouiou is the most simple of locales - a wooden cabane offering grilled steaks or fish and tasty pizzas with crisp salads, while diners sit beneath shady trees drinking wine that comes direct from the owner of the adjacent vines. A main course will set you back €10-€15, while a half-litre carafe of wine costs just €6.

Back in St Tropez itself, it's difficult to avoid the tourist-trap set menus - expensive and for the most part not very good. Despite its name, Basilic Burger (place des Remparts, 00 33 4 9497 2909), does more than just burgers: owners Serge and Nicole offer salads, steaks, omelettes and other simple healthy dishes at prices that are not bumped up at night, and the €15 prix-fixe menu is a bargain. The locals love it.

Remember that the picturesque Place des Lys turns into a vast market every Tuesday and Saturday morning, and here you can stock up for a picnic, and even pick up an inviting portion of paella for only €5.

Where to stay

Finding somewhere affordable to stay in St Tropez isn't easy, but if you book far enough in advance two secluded B&Bs provide an idyllic solution. Right in the middle of the old town, squeezed in between chic boutiques, restaurants and nightclubs, are two ancient fishermen's cottages where three rooms have been stylishly tranformed into a chambres d'hote. At the B&B Rue Saint-Jean (12 rue Saint-Jean; 00 33 6160 52176; email: nicolas.paraud@wanadoo.fr; doubles from €80) you can choose between an exotic Moorish duplex, a roomy studio with marble fireplace, or a pastel yellow loft with a beamed ceiling.

Villa Ambre (Route des Plages, Quartier des Mares, 00 33 6 8010 2324, email: gape.sylvie@orange.fr, doubles from €80) is the plush home of Sylvie and François Siri, and they have added two B&B rooms whose cool decor comes straight out of World of Interiors. There's no sign on the street, and Sylvie pops outside to show guests where to drive in. Once inside, you enter a peaceful oasis whose garden looks out over vineyards. Guests have use of the swimming pool, jacuzzi and barbecue for lazy nights of grilled locally caught fish and chilled rosé wine.

Although not in St Tropez itself, Villa Ambre is just five minutes' drive away on the famous Route des Plages, and from here you can walk to the glamorous Tahiti Beach.

Cannes
The lowdown

The Cannes Film Festival (which started last week and runs until 25 May) has been attracting celebrities for 70 years, but this ultimate Riviera resort has been a favourite of Europe's royalty and high society ever since it was discovered in the mid-19th century by aristocratic British travellers. So, though it is difficult to avoid a stroll down the palm-fringed Croisette, with its Hollywood-style film star handprints, this is just the facade, and Cannes has a lot more to offer. While rusting fishing smacks sit next to gleaming luxury speedboats in the old port, up above, the old town of Le Suquet is a maze of narrow, winding streets filled with restaurants and boutiques. And just across from the Palais du Cinema are two idyllic islands, Les Iles de Lerins, a 20-minute boat ride (€11 return) that transports you from the packed, expensive beaches of the Croisette to quiet sandy bays and lush Mediterranean gardens.

Where to eat

Gourmet dining can cost the earth in Cannes, but there are some great budget discoveries hidden away. Don't miss lunch at the Taverne Lucullus (4 place du Marché Forville, 00 33 4 9339 3274) for an authentic slice of local life and traditional cuisine. The bar of this bustling bistro next to the Forville food market is lined with a tempting selection of Cannois tapas - deep-fried courgette flowers, grilled red peppers and spicy meatballs - all of which are free as long as you order a drink.

At lunch there is a hearty €10.50 dish of the day, and each Friday connoisseurs come from all over the Riviera for the aioli, the famous Provençal dish of salt cod, vegetables and a killer garlic mayonnaise. The place is aways buzzing with colourful stall traders, and the owners, Henri and Coco, are real characters, always with a coupe de champagne in one hand.

Alternatively, in the hip rue d'Antibes neighbourhood a unique venture has just opened, Les Apprentis Gourmets (8 rue Teisseire, 00 33 4 9338 7876; lesapprentisgourmets.fr). This is a glitzy hi-tech cooking school, where you reserve the day before (by phone or online) and arrive at midday, when a chef teaches the class how to cook a main course in half an hour. You then go upstairs to the restaurant and eat what you've cooked. All for €15.

Where to stay

The Croisette may be lined with mythical palace hotels such as the Martinez, the Carlton and the Majestic, where a room - let alone a suite - costs a small fortune, but just 50 metres away in the back streets of Cannes are a host of reasonably priced two-star family-run hotels such as Hotel Blue Riva (35 rue Hoche, 00 33 4 9338 3367; hotel-blueriva.com, doubles from €56).

But the ultimate address to reserve in advance is Cottage Bellevue (7 traverse Sunny Bank, 00 33 6 2002 1338; email: jean-luc.pacaud@wanadoo.fr; from €55 breakfast included), a romantic B&B hidden away in the hills just above the city centre. The friendly Pacaud family rent out three spacious rooms, and guests have use of a lounge and a kitchen. Best of all, there is a fabulous terraced garden with exotic flowers and plants, gazebo, barbecue and panoramic views.

Antibes
The lowdown

As you drive in along the coast, the first view of Antibes takes your breath away. An imposing medieval fortress juts out into the deep blue Mediterannean against a spectacular backdrop of the snow-tipped Alps. In the past, the resort has attracted painters including Picasso, Monet and Renoir. Today, it is a mega-rich jet-set crowd who moor their yachts on what the locals call Millionaires' Quay.

Antibes is actually made up of three parts: the historic old town, the idyllic peninsula of Cap d'Antibes, and the beaches, Art Deco villas and nightlife of the ever-glamorous Juan-les-Pins. There is a bustling market every morning in the centre of Antibes, perfect for stocking up for a beach picnic, while at Juan-les-Pins, you can enjoy a drink (€8) at the waterside terrace of the Art Deco Hotel Belles Rives, once a private villa rented by F Scott Fitzgerald.

Where to eat

Don't expect stunning sea views or smartly dressed sommeliers at La Taverne du Safranier (Place du Safranier, 00 33 4 9334 8050). Le Saf, as everyone calls this brilliant bistro, has a terrace that overlooks a car park and the genial waiter, Christophe, wears jeans and T-shirt. But the food is out of this world. Using the freshest produce, the €24 three-course menu offers traditional dishes such as daube de poulpe - octopus slowly cooked in red wine - sea bass stuffed with an artichoke and olive purée, and the best profiteroles smothered in a hot chocolate sauce you will ever taste.

Where to stay

The scenic coast road to Cap d'Antibes is an exclusive hideaway, home to millionaires including Roman Abramovitch. But there are two unbeatable addresses: La Jabotte (13 avenue Max Maurey, 00 33 4 9361 4589; jabotte.com; doubles from €81, breakfast included) resembles a cute doll's house, with 12 small but charmingly decorated rooms surrounding a shady patio garden. A comfy communal salon is painted in bright colours and doubles as an art gallery.

Almost next door, Val des Roses (6 chemin des Lauriers, 00 33 6 8506 0629; val-des-roses.com, doubles from €150 including breakfast), a late 19th-century villa with swimming pool, is more expensive, but this bijou B&B is definitely the place to splash out for a taste of luxury. The owner, Frederik, is Belgian, and utterly spoils his guests, with freshly squeezed orange juice, cheeses and smoked ham, home-made jams and hot croissants laid out for breakfast. Both addresses are just 30 metres from the beach - a free one - and the historic centre of Antibes is 10 minutes' walk or a quick ride on the free public bus.

Nice
The lowdown

Nice is the de facto capital of the Côte d'Azur, a Grande Dame the French often dismiss as being pour les riches et les vieux - for the rich and the old. But it has been recently transformed into a vibrant, cultural city. Although it is difficult to drag yourself away from the majestic seafront, the Promenade des Anglais, the baroque old town with its splendid pastel palaces and churches, conceals a labyrinth of funky bars, restaurants and late-night clubs.

Up in the hills among the swanky villas of the exclusive Cimiez neighbourhood, the streets are named after the Prince of Wales and George V, and there's an imposing statue of Queen Victoria, who was a regular visitor. But there are also two state-of-the-art museums, dedicated to the painters Chagall (entry €6.50) and Matisse (entry €4), who were also long-term residents. From 1 July a new initiative will see all Nice museums becoming free. Any evening, you can pick up a sleek new tram from Place Masséna and take a tour of over a dozen colossal avant-garde sculptures that are lit up at night (a ticket for the tram, which passes most of the sculptures, costs €1; the proper guided tour costs €6).

Where to eat

Of all the Riviera resorts, Nice has both the best cuisine and the most affordable prices. Everyone visits the town's colourful Marché des Fleurs, and rather than sitting down at one of the dozens of touristy restaurants lining the square, head for Chez Theresa's flamboyant socca stall. Socca is a thin pizza/pancake made from chickpea flour and drizzled with fruity olive oil. A big portion costs only €3, and the socca itself arrives every five minutes on the back of a motorbike direct from the baker's oven.

Alternatively, the Lou Nissart (1 rue de l'Opéra, 00 33 4 9385 3449) has delicious dishes of the day at around €12, such as rack of lamb roasted with provencal herbs or petits farcis Niçois - vegetables stuffed with minced meat. A three-course set menu costs €23.

For the evening, reserve at L'Escalinada (rue Pairolière, 00 33 4 9362 1171; escalinada.fr), in the heart of the baroque old town, where the owner, Marco, makes everyone feel like his best friend. There is a full menu, with three courses, a glass of kir and a pissaladière (a local onion and anchovy tart) at €23 , but it's worth going à la carte here just for their speciality ribambelle (€15.50, but there's enough for two), a selection of Niçois appetisers - chickpeas and onion, grilled red peppers, octopus salad, beignets of aubergine and courgette, and a frîture of sardines, baby squid and locally fished red mullet. For dessert, don't miss the fabulous tarte au citron topped with meringue.

Where to stay

You don't have to check in at the legendary Negresco Hotel to stay just by the Promenade des Anglais and the azure waters of the Baie des Anges. A few minutes' walk away, in backstreets lined with grand belle époque mansions, lies the enticing Nice Garden Hotel (11 rue du Congrès, 00 33 4 9387 3562; nicegardenhotel.com; doubles from €65). Owner Marion Hoffman has lovingly renovated nine rooms in this family-run pension, and while the decor is charming, the reason to reserve here is her secluded, luxuriant garden with its orange grove and fragrant flowers.

Even closer to the seafront, Villa Rivoli (10 rue de Rivoli, 00 33 4 9388 8025; villa-rivoli.com; doubles from €69) is a rather grand, though faded, turn-of-the-century villa. But the place has just been bought by a dynamic new owner, who has embarked on a total renovation of the rooms and garden, which will be completed by summer. So this is definitely the time to book, as every effort is made to make guests feel special.

The essentials
Getting around

Nice, Cannes and Antibes are linked by a scenic train route that follows the coast: a one-way ticket costs €5, while a single bus ticket, whatever the distance, is just €1. From June to October, a day-trip ferry runs from Cannes (trans-cote-azur.com), to St Tropez for €37.50, about the same price you'd pay for a day's parking there.

Getting there

Easyjet (easyjet.com) flies to Nice from Belfast, Bristol, Edinburgh, Liverpool, Newcastle and London; Bmibaby (bmibaby.com) from Birmingham, East Midlands; Flybe (flybe.com) from Exeter, Jersey, Southampton; Jet2 (jet2.com) from Leeds-Bradfod and Manchester. carrentals.co.uk has hire cars from Nice airport from about £35 a day.

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